It's great to be back in Bergen.
I first visited in 2019, lived here for a full summer in 2023, and have zipped through many times in between. The city holds a special place in my heart for another reason, too. Through my family history research, I discovered that my great-great-grandfather left his home in Sogn og Fjordane on April 13, 1861. Just five days later, signs point to him boarding a ship here in Bergen, embarking on a two-month journey to America.
Bergen may have been the last place he stood on Norwegian soil. Now, more than 160 years later, I walk these streets and feel a deep connection between the past and present.
Currently, I’m house- and cat-sitting in Sandviken, a charming neighborhood just behind Bryggen. I arrived on February 20 and will be taking the ferry back to Skånevik on Saturday. It’s a treat to wind through the wooden passages of Bryggen into the city center each day, where I've been working remotely, rotating between some of my favorite cafés.
While it’s quiet now, these spaces will soon fill with visitors as we approach the tourist season.
BOOKS | BØKER
When I knew I'd be back in Bergen, I packed my copy of Bergen's Wooden Architecture and have been exploring more of its turn-by-turn walking routes, uncovering hidden details of the city. Take this alley near the city center—easy to overlook, yet on its brick wall, the year 1609 is still visible. I learned that this was once home to Dante's Inferno, a public house where sailors, merchants, and locals gathered. Such pubs were common in old Bergen, and the passageways here still reflect the city's medieval street system. If only these walls could talk. See if you can spot each number of the year 1609 in my video below (between the first and second stories):
I haven’t yet started the Jon Fosse book I mentioned in my last mixtape, but since then, I’ve read three others: the first book in contemporary Norwegian author Karl Ove Knausgård’s My Struggle series, Homegoing by Ghanaian-American novelist Yaa Gyasi, and How to Be Idle: A Loafer's Manifesto by British author Tom Hodgkinson. Each offered something unique, but Homegoing was the most gripping—I couldn’t put it down. How to Be Idle was both entertaining and insightful, with advice I’m trying to follow—like starting each day with a poem instead of getting sucked into the news cycle.
In both word and deed, one of the greatest idlers of all time was John Lennon. In his songs we see repeated defences of simply lying around doing nothing.
MUSIC | MUSIKK
American singer-songwriter Robert Ellis recently made the decision to leave social media, shifting his focus to more intentional communication through email updates. In his first message since stepping away, he reflects on the challenge of deciding where to place our attention in a world overflowing with options—whether in music, learning, or daily life.
Knutsen & Ludvigsen, a beloved Norwegian musical duo active from the early 70s to the late 80s, created whimsical children's songs full of humor and subtle social commentary. Their catchy, imaginative melodies remain cherished across generations in Norway. Here's their fun tribute to Bergen (even if you don't speak the language!).
ART | KUNST
This is a collection of photos I’ve taken of Bergen art over the last few years, though it’s just a sampling. Nearly all of these were taken in and around the city center, but public art—both official and unofficial—can be found all over Bergen and throughout Norway (tiny Skånevik even has a piece dedicated to the Blues Brothers!).
One of my favorite local artists is Shy Girl (IG).
NORWEGIAN WORD | NORSK ORD
Bergen, often called The City Between Seven Mountains, offers the perfect opportunity to learn the Norwegian word for ‘mountain’: fjell (pronounced fyell). With that, you can see the inspiration behind 7 Fjell, the name of a local craft brewery. Skål! 🍻
Below: They craft a special beer exclusively for the Bergen Fish Market (Fisketorget), and during COVID, they got creative (and adapted to restrictions) by brewing a 2.5% beer called In These Times (I Disse Tider).
Consumerism is the ideology that externalities will complete you.
INSPIRATION | INSPIRASJON
Bronnie Ware is an Australian author, songwriter, and motivational speaker best known for The Top Five Regrets of the Dying, where she shares insights from her time as a palliative carer. She advocates for simplicity, creating space to breathe, and having the courage to follow the heart—trusting that life will provide the shortcuts. I’m a fan of her sweet, simple newsletter, Life and Wonder as well as her prompts.
Four years ago, on March 3, 2021, I made the decision to leave full-time life in the U.S. Seven months later, I boarded a plane to Norway. I wasn’t yet ready to share the news with friends and family (until April), my landlords (June), or my employer (August), but I could take action immediately - by downsizing. After 13 years in one apartment (not that long compared to others, I realize!), it felt overwhelming, but I tackled it step by step—starting with a drawer, then a cupboard, then a closet. It doesn't matter if you're planning a major life change or not—your material possessions are weighing you down. For more on downsizing + simplifying, I recommend The Minimalists podcast.
“There is something infinitely healing in the repeated refrains of nature - the assurance that dawn comes after night, and spring after winter.” ―Rachel Carson, The Sense of Wonder
I’ll be sending my next update from Haugesund in early April. If there’s a topic you’d like me to cover, let me know—I’d love to include it. I also enjoy hearing about what you’re reading, listening to, and discovering, so feel free to share your recommendations in the comments.
Before signing off, a quick note: If you arrived at this post via social media, please consider subscribing to stay connected. I’ll be spending less and less time on those platforms and focusing more on sharing here.
As for now, I’m more than ready to leave February behind—spring is just around the corner.
Thanks for reading, and Happy March.
Marla
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